97 Points – Bastard Tongue, an Hedonistic Pinot Noir

 

The Bastard Tongue, a blend of Swan, Pommard and Dijon 115 clones, offers up dark raspberry, strawberry and cherry notes that give the wine a dark-red-fruit character, but there are also loamy soil undertones, underbrush, spice box and a rich, medium to full-bodied, fleshy mouthfeel. This is a complex Pinot Noir to drink now and over the next decade.

Argot 2019 “Bastard Tongue” Pinot Noir,
Sonoma Coast

GGWC 89.99
FREE SHIPPING on 6 or more
Use code ARGOT during checkout

OK to mix & match with other Argot wines

A selection of barrels displaying the magnificence of Sonoma County Pinot Noir — that specific balance of opulent fruit, inherent spice and earthen notes. 2019’s cuvee brings forth a significant emphasis on Sonoma’s oldest heritage selection, the Swan Clone. 

Winemaker Notes: “With its late start, 2019 was always destined to have a fast and furious harvest. Following 2018’s unprecedentedly late season, it came as quite a surprise when harvest 2019 kicked off even later in the year. These two vintages however, could not have arrived at more different conclusions. While 2018’s harvest season was a glorious, top-down Sunday drive along the coast; 2019’s was an all-out drag race to the end (deploy the parachute, and all!)… with this wine definitively exemplifying the spirit of its season.

Pouring a deep-hued magenta, 2019’s BT is nothing short of full-tilt-boogie Pinot Noir. From the jump, a heady swirl of ripe raspberries and succulent blackberries explode from the glass. Textures caress the palate with other-worldly talent as the wine unfurls in a tsunami of red and black fruits, all while accompanied by the hallmark notes Bastard Tongue lovers have come to appreciate and expect — white flowers, forest floor, conifer tree, allspice and that tell-tale Oriental plum sauce. A wine of unbridled intensity and power, seamless textures and an unerring purity. A pinnacle Bastard Tongue that is the culmination of nearly a decade of producing this cuvée. We can not wait for you to experience this wine!”

FMW 97 Points: “This Bastard Tongue is riveting, and reminds me of amazing Grand Cru Burgundies. This wine is striking, bursting from the glass with aromas of wild berries, grilled game, dark chocolate, cinnamon and violets. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, lush and yet elegant, with a bottomless core of fruit, rich but supple structuring tannins, and a long, muscular finish. This wine is the rock star of Sonoma County Pinot Noir that delivers the goods. Drink it any time over the coming 8-10 years.”

Also check out:
ARGOT 2018 SYRAH “INDIGO” SONOMA MOUNTAIN – 96+ POINTS
ARGOT 2018 CABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA – 91+ POINTS

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Wine color: What can it tell you?

How much information can you extract by just looking at the colour of a wine?

By Sylvia Wu

 

 
Credit: Maksym Kaharlytskyi / Unsplash 
Color is the first hint about a wine, offering you some initial clues about the style, age and taste of the liquid in your glass. To properly observe wine color, you should ideally pour the wine into a clear glass in-front of a white background. Tilt the glass to examine the colour spectrum and its intensity.

However, wine colour can’t tell you everything, and it can sometimes give false impressions of how a wine will taste.

Some scientific research has also shown that color can influence taste, as Richard Hemming MW cited in a 2015 article on the subject in Decanter magazine.

So, what can we learn by analyzing wine color?
 

Wine color: Where it first comes from                                                                    
In the first instance, it is the pigment in the grape skins that brings color to young wines. Color can then be extracted from the skins during the winemaking and fermentation process. Many white wines are made from ‘white’ grapes, which are green when picked. Skins are separated from the grape must before fermentation. Extended skin contact for white wine grapes is a key feature in the production of ‘orange wines’. Red wines are made from black grapes and the skins have been left in contact with the grape must during the fermentation process, to extract colour.

Some grape varieties naturally lend more colour than others, and this can help you spot them in a line-up.
A young wine made from thick-skinned Malbec or Syrah / Shiraz grapes will more commonly have a deep purple hue, while a thinner-skinned Pinot Noir wine will often take on a pale complexion. However, the growing climate and a winery’s decisions in the vineyard affect where a wine sits on the colour spectrum. Winemaking processes and storage conditions can also alter colour and its intensity. The amount of color extracted depends on the winery’s methods, such as the length of fermentation. Some producers prefer a cold soak maceration before fermentation, to encourage colour to seep from the skins without extracting lots of tannin.

It’s possible for black grapes to produce white wine, as long as the skins are separated from the juice quickly enough. A classic example would be the use of Pinot Noir in Champagne. In particular, Blanc de Noir Champagnes, made from 100% Pinot. There are several ways to make rosé wines. These include the saignée method, which essentially involves ‘bleeding’ off pink juice early in the red winemaking process, or leaving skins in contact with the juice for a certain amount of time before fermentation

Oxidation and aging                                                                                                    
As white wines age they tend to gain colour, moving from lemon through to gold, amber and eventually brown. This is an oxidative process also known as ‘maderisation’; a term taken from the production of Madeira wines. Red wines tend to lose colour as they age and oxidise. They may begin with purple or ruby tones, move through to garnet and eventually take on a tawny-like appearance. Tawny Ports, which are usually made from red grapes, can appear to be golden brown in the glass after decades of ageing.

Does that mean we can tell how old a wine is by the color?        
Color is certainly a useful hint, and it can give you an idea of a wine’s stage of development. But, the level and rate of oxidation is far from uniform; it can be affected by how wines are made, matured and stored. A wine may be kept in a reductive environment, such as stainless steel tanks, to retain freshness and primary fruit character, for instance. Wine fermented or stored in oak will be exposed to small amounts of oxygen. Smaller casks mean greater exposure. The chemical stability of a wine, such as acidity level, and the humidity and temperature levels during storage can also influence how fast a wine ages.        
                                                                                                                                 
What does color tell us about flavor and sweetness?                                          
It is a challenge to deduct the taste of a wine just by looking at the color. We tend to associate deeper colours in red wines with more concentrated flavors, higher tannins and alcohol. Yet many red wines can defy that assumption. Barbera from Piedmont, for instance, tends to give deep ruby colours, high acidity but low tannins. Some young Beaujolais wines made from the Gamay grape can appear quite dense and purple, despite being relatively light-bodied with low tannins. Other Beaujolais wines, particularly from certain ‘Cru’ areas, have a bigger structure.

Color may also give us false signals about the sweetness of a wine.              
‘Halbtrocken’ German Rieslings and late-harvest Muscats can both appear to be clear and light in color, just like dry white wines, for instance. The same applies to ruby Ports, where a fresh and bright appearance may mask the wines’ sweetness and intensity. Many lusciously sweet wines, such as Sauternes and Tokaji Aszú, are golden or amber in colour. However, a wine with a deep golden, amber or honeyed appearance can still be dry.  
                                             
Orange wines, a style gaining popularity in the last decade, are dry wines made from white grapes with prolonged maceration on the skin – essentially, they are made as if they were red wines. Contrary to a common assumption, the bright amber color of orange wines largely comes from the skin, not oxidation, although the winemaking process is often oxidative. While they can also be misleading, the varied, vivid colors dancing in your glass are also part of our fascination with wine. As Richard Hemming MW put it, ‘Colour is a vital part of not only the science and understanding of wine – but also of its enjoyment.’
 


Ready to explore all the colors of wine we have to offer?
Visit us at GoldenGateWineCellars.com!
As always, don’t hesitate to call us at 415-337-4083 or email frank@goldengatewinecellars.com for selection advice or assistance!

 

SORRY LAST CALL FOR 94 Point UNDER $40 Pinot

 

Capiaux is the Pinot Noir venture from Sean Capiaux, the longtime winemaker and partner at O’Shaughnessy winery. The Widdoes vineyard is the source for some other amazing wines (DuMol, Kosta Browne, Bacio Divino, etc.). 

This wine greets you with a gorgeous nose of strawberries and bright red stone fruits. On the palate; this well-constructed youngster offers a full, intense body loaded with some more red and black stone fruit and a velvety appearance with a slight touch of earthiness and minerality. The wine finishes with an amazingly beautiful long finish.

Capiaux 2019 Chimera Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
GGWC 37.99
FREE SHIPPING on 12
Use code CAPIAUX during checkout

Robert Parker 94 Points: “The 2019 Pinot Noir Chimera bottling is delicious this vintage and a great value. Medium ruby, it’s intensely scented of raspberry liqueur, blood orange, licorice, iron and earth. The full-bodied palate is plush, silky and open with generous, spicy fruits and a very long finish. It was aged 11 months in 10% new French oak.”

Winemaker Notes: “ Medium dark red to purple in color with a vibrant purple hue leads into perfumed aromas of dark berries, crème cherry and raspberry with a light vanilla oak note. Nicely integrated with red cherry fruit, pomegranate, and strawberry preserve. Chimera has a medium weight and tannins with a silky texture and a candied fruit finish.”

Vineyards: 40% Starscape Vineyard,  27% Widdoes Vineyard, 20% Sale Vineyard, 5% Pisoni Vineyard, 5% Wilson Vineyard and 3% Garys’ Vineyard

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94 Point Flamboyant, Super Exotic under $70 Napa Cabernet


 

Behrens 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon The Anchor Napa Valley
GGWC 69.99 net item
FREE SHIPPING on 6 or more
Use code ANCHOR during checkout

Vinous 94 Points: “The 2017 The Anchor is rich, flamboyant and super-exotic. Crème de cassis, menthol, lavender and sweet spice all race out of the glass. This rich, sumptuous Cabernet is one of the many 2017s here that offer tremendous immediacy. It could use some time to soften, and yet there is good structure underneath. Blood orange, mint, sweet spice and rose petal overtones add dramatic lift on the finish.”

Winery Notes: “The anchor is a symbol of staying in place. Of being held fast. Though we long to be free and untethered, sometimes we need that sense of security – of being held to something and having something to hold on to. This one feels personal right now. There is weight to this wine. A sense of earth and forest floor, yet an airiness that hints of salinity and ocean breeze. It is dense and brooding with layers of cocoa and roasted plums, and firm tannins to keep it all contained. Not to go overboard on this, but the name is very fitting to this bottle, to this time and place. The wine is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot.”

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Call 415-337-4083 or email frank@goldengatewinecellars.com for priority allocation.

“The Petrus from Napa” has arrived


 
Barbara and Jim Richards always had an interest in wine, both in its making and its consumption, and in food and gardening. In 1980, they were living in Midland, Texas, and began thinking about a second home and decided to start looking for a small property in the Napa Valley where they could build a home and plant a small vineyard. This dream was realized in 1983 when a friend of theirs, Dan Duckhorn, called and told them about the property now known as Paloma Vineyard. The property is located five miles northwest of St. Helena at the top of Spring Mountain. In the last half of the 19th century it was a vineyard, but was allowed to return to forest around the turn of the century. The purchase of this raw land was the beginning of an odyssey that is ongoing, ever changing, but with one goal—to grow the best grapes possible and make a wine that reflects the terroir of Paloma Vineyard, Spring Mountain and Napa. Sadly both Jim (2009) and Barbara (2016) passed away, but their son Sheldon has been groomed since 2003 to take over the reins, and continue the legacy of Paloma for years to come.

The 2017 vintage was one of the smallest on record for our friends of Paloma, courtesy of many drought years. So there is not much to go around this year!

Paloma has become synonymous with Merlot for Cabernet Lovers. Like some of its First Growth French counterparts, Paloma’s Merlot could be called a proprietary red blend as it is a blend of 85% Merlot & 15% Cabernet. I also want to let those Cabernet-philes know that one the most sought after, highly rated and probably (one of) the most expensive wines in the world is NOT Cabernet, but Merlot (Chateau Petrus) …. So Paloma (might be) Napa Valley’s Petrus, but at a fraction of the cost!

Paloma 2017 Merlot Estate Spring Mountain, Napa Valley
GGWC 69.99
FREE SHIPPING on SIX or more
Use code PALOMA upon checkout

The 2017 Paloma is a Merlot that will give many Cabernets a run for their money as this is not your wimpy, soft, silky wine, but a well-balanced, complex, dark, concentrated, full-bodied mountain-grown gem! The wine’s aroma is amazing, and jumps right out of the glass on impact. This wine is layered with dense black stone fruit laced with dark chocolate and a whiff of toasty vanilla. It is a big, lush youngster that pleases from start to finish. It is well-balanced and elegant at the same time. But I suggest putting this one down for 6-12 months prior to imbibing. Very small production.

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A Seductive Napa Valley Cabernet Blend that is boisterously expressive but not crazy expensive


 
In August of 2012, Dave Phinney and his friends stood in the middle of a block of hundred-year-old Zinfandel. The vineyard was planted by George Beldon Crane in the late nineteenth century and is one of the icons of the Napa Valley. Hours earlier they had signed the paperwork to buy the vineyard and it was just in the nick of time… they picked the grapes the next morning.

GB Crane 2019 El Coco Proprietary Red Blend,
Napa Valley

GGWC 84.99 
FREE SHIPPING on 6 or more
Use code GBCRANE during checkout

The 2019 GB Crane “El Coco” crafted by Dave Phinney is a blend of  Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Sirah and Old Vine Zinfandel.  Aromatics abound and complete, the “El Coco” is replete with a wide spectrum from boysenberry jam and black plum to candied raspberries and nutmeg. The palate is ripe with dark stone fruits, blueberries, a hint of meatiness and confectionary orange, akin to mandarin encased “foie gras”. With just enough tannin to bind the flavors together. The wine finishes elegantly with a salivating savory-ness that lingers. 
 
Winemaker Notes: “The 2019 G.B. Crane Vineyard el Coco pours a rich and dark garnet with a purple tint in the glass. Aromatically, the wine is boisterously expressive with notes of violet, lilac, blackberry, dark roses, supple leather and exotic spices. An energetic entry that is both elegant and vibrant, the palate is rife with notes of black plum, black cherry, currant, ripe raspberry and a touch of vanilla. Soft tannins abound with palate- coating density resulting in a luscious finish that lingers.”
 
Dave Phinney: “Life is an endless procession of surprises. The expected rarely occurs and when it does, make sure to erase it from your memory because it’s highly unlikely to repeat itself. That should be the definition for farming and more specifically grape growing. When we first purchased a portion of the iconic Crane vineyard it was mainly because of the four acres of ancient Zinfandel that are a St. Helena landmark. Of course, we knew there was Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and two rows of Merlot as well, but we considered these a bonus, if you will. That all changed the first time that we tasted the Cabernet in the fermenter. The young wine was massive. It had huge amounts of brambly black fruits and tons of weight on the mid pallet. The color was an amazingly dark violet hue. The aromas were so sophisticated for a wine of this age. We were dumbfounded…. in a good way. Immediately we began the discussion of what barrels to use, how long to leave it on the skins, etc… etc. It was a pleasurable panic. Grown men acting like a couple of giddy school girls. Eventually we calmed down and just enjoyed the moment. We welcomed the surprise. Now three years later we welcome you to enjoy this surprise, our surprise. Because none of us know when it may come again.”
 
Also check out these other GB Crane Wines: 
G.B. CRANE 2018 DISCIPLES PROPRIETARY RED, NAPA VALLEY

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When Bordeaux and California Meet … California takes the Crown!


 
Shared Notes is a winemaking joint-venture between wife and husband, Bibiana Gonzalez Rave (Cattleya, and former Pahlmeyer & Wayfarer winemaker) and Jeff Pisoni (Pisoni, Lucia, Luli, etc. winemaker). Both had early desires of making wine, and spent most of their lives doing so. The year 2012, however, marked the first vintage that they produced together. Previously, during the grape harvest, Bibiana and Jeff were like the proverbial ships passing in the night. Early grape picks and late nights at the winery left them rarely crossing paths. Now, Bibiana and Jeff cross paths—to discuss ideas and taste samples. You can sometimes catch them in front of a grapevine, the press, a fermenting tank, or a barrel… most likely with a glass in hand.

Shared Notes 2020 Sauvignon Blanc
Les Leçons des maîtres, Russian River Valley

GGWC 69.99 net item  
FREE SHIPPING on 12 or more
Use code SHAREDNOTES during checkout

Ok to  mix & match with other Shared Notes SB

This wine is a White blend inspired by the cellar masters of Bordeaux and their dedication to Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Classically Bordeaux to its core, the 2020 Shared Notes Les Leçons des Maîtres harmonizes the finest aspects of both the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon varietals. Crushed white peach, Bosc pear, and honeysuckle fill the glass as this youthful, shimmering light green wine starts to breathe with each swirl. Flavors of stone fruits, ripe melon, and lemon zest combine with mineral driven notes of crushed rock and sea air to form a precise, yet complex profile. Vibrant, mouthwatering acidity dances on the palate, while generous volume and texture from aging peacefully on its lees provides an unmistakable richness. 

Bibiana’s Tasting notes: A true homage to this legendary Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the 2020 Shared Notes Les leçons des maîtres is a stunning example of the old adage that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Incredibly bright notes of Key lime, crisp pear, and grapefruit are enveloped with generous, rich aromas of honeysuckle and juicy white peach. As this wine coats the palate, flavors of nectarine and citrus zest are given added volume and supple texture through the inclusion of Semillon and the wines extended lees contact in new French oak barrels. Though a true delight when consumed in its infancy, the lessons of these masters will surely continue to evolve and mature well into the next decade.

Vineyard Sources: Ritchie, Kick Ranch & Merino Vineyards

Also check out these other wines by Bibiana:

Cattleya 2019 Pinot Noir Cuvee #1
Cattleya 2019 Chardonnay Beyond TheThreshold
Cattleya 2018 Syrah”Initiation” 97 Points
Cattleya 2018 Cabernet “The Mentor” 98 Points
Cattleya 2018 Chardonnay Cuvee #5 – 94 POINTS
Cattleya 2018 Pinot Noir Belly of the Whale – 97 POINTS
Cattleya 2020 Alma de Cattleya Sauvignon Blanc

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95 Point Pinot Gem from a Bevan and Lato Source at a lower price point


 

Kimberly Hatcher is the longtime assistant to Russell Bevan and has kept her eyes and ears wide open, and she is on a roll as of late! Robert Parker and Jeb Dunnuck have “noticed” her and the press is out! That said, Kimberly’s OWN wines are very small productions, and with high scores… they will sell out fast! She makes the wines at the Tench Caves, and I am sure Russell might be looking over her shoulder once in a while (… or maybe not).

Morgado 2018 Pinot Noir Rita’s Crown, Santa Rita Hills
GGWC 64.99
FREE SHIPPING on 6
Use code MORGADO during checkout

Jeb Dunnuck 95 Points: “The 2018 Pinot Noir Rita’s Crown comes from a great vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills and is a powerful, full-bodied, concentrated wine that’s very much in the style of the estate. Smoked earth, chocolate, brambly herbs, and savory red and black fruits pack the nose, and it’s already drinking nicely, yet I suspect it will evolve for at least 4-5 years, probably longer.”
 
Winemaker Notes: “Sourced from the peak of Rita’s Crown, this Pinot Noir stains the glass with a deep garnet hue. The nose is a kaleidoscope of lusciously enticing aromas. As you swirl, the Oolong tea, rose petals, ripe red nectarine and yuzu rise above the glass. Confidently flamboyant this wine gives you more layers with each return to it. Tree ripened mission fig, black plum, orange zest, and wild sage knit together with dense black cherry to a succulent, complete finish. The decadent nature of this Pinot Noir is buttressed by focused acidity that is inherent to this wildly celebrated site.”
 
Also check out: Morgado 2018 Sugarloaf Mountain Proprietary Red, 96 Points

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Call 415-337-4083 or email frank@goldengatewinecellars.com for priority allocation.

Cabernet in Sonoma: Why Cabernet Sauvignon Deserves One More Spotlight in California

Cabernet in Sonoma:
Why Cabernet Sauvignon Deserves
One More Spotlight in California

By Bryce Wiatrak

“As a group, Sonoma cabernets tend to be overlooked—an indignity, and it needs to go,” wrote the wine columnist Frank Prial in a 2000 New York Times article. I couldn’t agree more. Cabernet Sauvignon is rarely an underdog. After all, it is the backbone of many of the world’s most pedigreed, collected, and expensive red wines, from the Médoc to Bolgheri to the Napa Valley. Yet Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon does not possess nearly the brand power of Cabernet wines grown across the county line in the Napa Valley. It also garners less recognition in Sonoma than the county’s most esteemed grapes: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and perhaps for some even Zinfandel. In 2019, the average price per ton of Napa Valley Cabernet was $7,941. In Sonoma, it was less than half that, at $3,056. Sonoma Pinot Noir, meanwhile, was $3,949.

Sonoma County Cabernet should not be such a secret. It trails Pinot Noir in total plantings, with 12,621 acres to Pinot’s 13,094 in 2019. Indeed, Pinot Noir overtook Cabernet Sauvignon as Sonoma’s most planted red grape variety only between 2007 and 2008, riding the California-wide, post-Sideways Pinot Noir boom. Further, what are believed to be the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in North America grow in Sonoma, at the famous Monte Rosso Vineyard, planted by Louis M. Martini in 1940. And yet, more than two decades after his remarks, Prial’s plea to consider Sonoma Cabernet has not been fully answered.

Prial was drawn to the approachability of Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon. He claimed, “As a rule, Sonoma cabernets are rounder and fleshier than the Napa cabernets.” That may be less true today than it was then, as a growing number of ambitious Cabernet projects have cropped up across the county. Other critics often point to the greater comparative value Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon presents versus examples from Napa. That remains almost always true.

But for me, what is most exciting about Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon is the tremendous diversity of expressions available—a range that is conceivably broader than that of the Napa Valley. A single county offers Cabernet from the coast and from the interior, from the mountains and from the valleys, from hipsters and from Robert Parker–approved stalwarts. No matter how you take your Cabernet, Sonoma has one just for you.

A Prophecy for Sonoma Valley What is arguably Sonoma’s most historic corridor is also one of its great terroirs for Cabernet Sauvignon: the Sonoma Valley. Comprising the county’s southeastern quadrant, the valley—unfolding between the Mayacamas Mountains and the next ridgeline toward the Pacific—includes Buena Vista, California’s oldest operating winery, as well as such heritage producers as Gundlach Bundschu, Chateau St. Jean, Kenwood, and Benziger.

The Sonoma Valley is also home to Monte Rosso, the crown jewel of the Moon Mountain District AVA. Brenae Royal is the viticulturist at the iconic property, which today is owned by E. & J. Gallo. “I think Monte Rosso is the representation of Moon Mountain,” she says. It’s the largest vineyard in the appellation, and, Royal adds, “any neighboring vineyards that we have out there have cuttings from Monte Rosso.” Of Monte Rosso’s approximately 250 acres, 118 are dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon. Of those, 3.73 acres are from the 1940 plantings. 

“We’re really curating each of those vines individually to what they can handle,” explains Royal of the old, head-trained block. “You’re managing those vines for true balance. And I know that’s very cliché to say, but your expectations can’t be production levels.” Mainly, this tedious work involves weighing the canopy growth against the crop load so that these old vines are not taking on more fruit than they can sustain, and are not so under cropped that the fruit loses its acidity, a trademark for the vineyard. As a result, the 1940 block is farmed to about 1.5 tons per acre—half the average of Monte Rosso overall. 

Today, 10 producers, beyond E. & J. Gallo’s brands, purchase Cabernet Sauvignon from Monte Rosso, including Arrowood, Bedrock Wine Co., and Sbragia Family Vineyards. Some of the wines have yet to hit the shelves, following Gallo’s more recent push to sell Monte Rosso fruit to premium wineries and place less into lower-priced blends without any vineyard designation. Still, Monte Rosso is hardly the only great Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard of the Sonoma Valley.

“There are three areas for great Cab in Sonoma Valley, and they have some pretty distinct differences,” says Sam Coturri, who farms many of the top properties in the Sonoma Valley with his father, Phil Coturri, and their management company, Enterprise Vineyards. He also makes wine for his own label, Winery Sixteen 600.

First among the areas he notes is a collection of patches on the valley floor. Much like the fans at the feet of Napa’s mountain ranges, these Sonoma Valley sites feature complex soils that include rocky alluvial runoff mixed with the loam of the bench. Coturri praises the Cabernet wines grown here for their richness.

Second is the Sonoma Mountain AVA, a 2,400-foot peak on the western range. “The standout I always think of there is Laurel Glen,” says Coturri of the renowned winery, whose Cabernet blends demonstrate a lighter hand and more classical aesthetic. Vineyards on Sonoma Mountain generally face east or northeast, capturing the softer morning light and shadowing earlier in the afternoon when the sun is harshest.

Third is, of course, the Moon Mountain District—whose famous vineyards extend well beyond Monte Rosso and include such sites as Montecillo Vineyard, Hanzell Vineyard, and the original Kistler Vineyard. The Sonoma side of Napa’s Mount Veeder, Moon Mountain, in contrast to Sonoma Mountain, faces west. Here, vines above the fog are bathed in the afternoon light. The volcanic soils are intercepted by dramatic rock formations—inspiring the appellation’s lunar name—and the stones radiate heat, narrowing diurnal swings and allowing for maturation to continue overnight.

 
Moon Mountain (Photo credit: Bryce Wiatrak)
Moon Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is defined by its acidity, even at profound ripeness. Coturri explains, “A Moon Mountain District Cabernet that you bring in at 28 [degrees Brix] . . . the pH is 3.2, 3.3, 3.4.” What is impressive about Moon Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is its ability to maintain a sense of brightness and some of Cabernet’s more savory qualities while routinely exceeding 15% alcohol by volume. “Winemakers often will come into working with Moon Mountain District Cabernet for the first time and be freaking out—because of potential alcohol, because of pH, because of Brix—and pick too early and have these acidities that are really hard to deal with,” Coturri says. 

“I really love thinking about one of the great Cabernets of the Moon Mountain District as sort of the yin to the Mayacamas Winery’s yang,” he adds. (Mayacamas is the prestigious winery across the ridgeline on Mount Veeder that the Coturri family also farms.) “You have the same sort of intensity that you get at Mayacamas and structure and freshness, but because we’re on the sunny side of the mountain—where Mayacamas is in the shadows over there—you get more richness and ripeness.”

Attention toward the Moon Mountain District seems only to have been growing since the AVA’s formation in 2013. Prices, too, seem to more closely resemble those of Napa. “It’s a self-fulfilling prophecy,” says Coturri. “If we are able to put the resources into farming it and producing it, the wines will prove themselves to be among the elite Cabernets of the planet.” 

Take to the Hills


Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is not a new concept for Sonoma County, but only in recent years has it begun to capture the same attention as the high-elevation wines grown to the east. The variety was planted at the original, mountainous Fountain Grove Winery in the 1870s, but the vineyard—which supported one of California’s largest pre-Prohibition brands—was torn up in favor of cattle ranching upon its sale in 1934. In this vicinity, production of premium Cabernet has returned and increased for at least the past half century, led by stalwarts such as Fisher Vineyards since the early 1970s and more-contemporary arrivals like Cornell Vineyards in the 2000s. Still, only recently has this area—the Fountaingrove District AVA, and effectively the Sonoma side of Napa’s Spring Mountain District AVA in the Mayacamas—started to form a collective identity for its Cabernet wines.

Just north, Knights Valley offered some of the first hyper-premium Sonoma Cabernet wines, almost exclusively from high-elevation fruit. Among the earliest was Peter Michael, who started planting his Les Pavots Vineyard to Bordeaux varieties in 1989 as high as 1,400 feet near the base of Mount Saint Helena. As Sonoma’s hottest corner, Knights Valley is nonetheless moderated by its straight shot to the ocean. “The far east is not protected by the big Mayacamas Mountains . . . so we are still under the influence of the Pacific Ocean,” says Pierre Seillan, who with his daughter, Hélène, makes the wines for the Jackson Family’s Vérité and Anakota brands at a Knights Valley facility. 

In the Alexander Valley, arguably Sonoma’s most classic and best recognized appellation for Cabernet Sauvignon, Rodney Strong helped pioneer hillside Cabernet, as well as the area’s first single-vineyard Cabernet, from his Alexander’s Crown property, planted in 1971—a time when winegrowing was almost exclusively limited to the bench. At 250 to 350 feet in elevation, the vineyard is hardly mountainous by modern standards, but the move away from the valley floor was significant at the time. Even today, much of the Alexander Valley benchland is cropped high, with vigorous rootstocks and high-yielding clones, leading to greener, often thinner expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon—though there are also several top-quality exceptions.

Much of the current excitement about the Alexander Valley is focused on wines grown far higher off the ground in the eastern hillsides of the appellation. Gauer Ranch, one of the earliest vineyards, was purchased in 1995 by Jackson Family Wines, which renamed it Alexander Mountain Estate. The soaring property reaches elevations as high as 2,400 feet above sea level  and provides fruit for several of the top Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the Jackson portfolio, including Stonestreet and Vérité, the label with a trio of multiregional Sonoma blends—and the county’s most expensive wines. 

Chris Jackson hopes the Alexander Valley’s eastern slopes, including his family’s Alexander Mountain Estate and several dozen smaller neighbors, will become an AVA in the next half decade or so. Pocket Peak, as he calls it, would be the first nested appellation within the Alexander Valley. Wines from this area are concentrated and darkly fruited, with bold, rocky tannins. To my palate, they resemble Napa mountain Cabernet more closely than any other examples from Sonoma.

Nevertheless, Pocket Peak has its singularities. “It will cool down quicker here, it takes longer to warm up, and our nights here, when compared to Oakville . . . will be 10 to 15 degrees cooler,” explains the winemaker Jesse Katz, whose single-vineyard wines for his young Aperture label count among the zone’s dynamic new ventures. Katz notes that the lower eastern range of the Alexander Valley—less towering than the Mayacamas, as Seillan noted—allows for a maritime influence that is greater than what is observed in the Napa Valley. The colder temperatures allow for an extended growing season, while the western exposure confirms a consistent lush, ripe style expected of California Cabernet. Further, the various free-draining, gravelly volcanic soils that blanket Pocket Peak create ample hydric stress from early in the growth cycle, helping shrink berry size and increase skin-to-juice ratios. In all, these mechanisms mandate the densely structured, ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon that Pocket Peak is becoming known for—wines that Katz describes as rich in tannin but more restrained in fruit character than Napa mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.
 

Hillside plantings at A. Rafanelli
(Photo credit: Bryce Wiatrak)

Two ridgelines over, Shelly Rafanelli finds that Cabernet Sauvignon in Dry Creek Valley has different needs. “I really feel the best stuff comes off the steeper hillsides on the west side,” says Rafanelli, who now leads A. Rafanelli Winery, which her family founded in the early 20th century. While Dry Creek Valley is best known as one of California’s premier appellations for Zinfandel, a substantial amount of Cabernet Sauvignon is also planted in the region. Shelly’s father, David, spearheaded Rafanelli’s Cabernet program, purchasing an established vineyard for the variety in the early 1980s on the valley floor. He quickly found, however, that the soils were too heavy for the quality Cabernet wine he envisioned. David proceeded to source fruit for his first Cabernet wines from the western slopes of Dry Creek Valley, converted his new valley floor vineyard to Merlot (which is more likely to thrive in deeper clay soils), and planted Cabernet Sauvignon on the hillsides of his property in 1991—the best of which would later go into Rafanelli’s flagship Terrace Select. 

While less qualitatively different for Zinfandel, Shelly Rafanelli notes that the drainage provided by hillside sites is critical for top-shelf Cabernet Sauvignon in Dry Creek Valley, as it is in the Alexander Valley. In Dry Creek Valley, however, the elevation also helps protect the vines from the heat that otherwise contributes to the signature jammy character of the region’s Zinfandel. That mitigation is further exaggerated in the western hills, where the aspect favors soft morning sun and around two hours less light each day during the growing season. Rafanelli finds the resulting fruit achieves a structural balance that minimizes the need for blending with accessory varieties. “We have good tannins, but the tannins aren’t so big and brash,” she explains, further noting a huckleberry or blueberry note reminiscent of that found in classic Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. 

Cabernet in the Pinot Lands


While Moon Mountain or the Alexander Valley hillsides may come across as obvious Cabernet country, the variety has also infiltrated more unexpected terrain, including areas that would otherwise appear sacred Pinot land.

The Fort Ross–Seaview AVA possesses some of the most hallowed ground for Pinot Noir in California. It was here that in 1972, Michael Bohan planted the first successful, modern vineyard in the far reaches of the West Sonoma Coast. David Hirsch followed in 1980. Later, his daughter Jasmine fronted the In Pursuit of Balance movement to champion chiseled, restrained California Pinot Noirs—with her family’s wines, grown in the punishing margins, serving as textbook examples.

For his project Enfield Wine Co., John Lockwood also makes wine from Fort Ross–Seaview—just two miles as the crow flies from Hirsch—but from Cabernet Sauvignon. “There are certainly some sites in Fort Ross that would be too cool for Cabernet and are obviously more appropriate for Pinot and Chard,” Lockwood says. “There’s also a lot of variability.” Lockwood sources fruit from the Waterhorse Ridge Vineyard, a site he thinks is too warm for Pinot Noir. The vineyard, located on a hilltop, experiences almost no fog and faces west, receiving intense afternoon sunlight. The shallow, rocky volcanic soils help reduce yields and ultimately make ripening Cabernet Sauvignon possible.

That’s not to say Lockwood’s wine resembles a more inland Cabernet. Structurally, the acidity is quite pronounced, while the alcohol by volume only reaches 13.4% in the 2018 vintage—low for California but in line with much Bordeaux. Still, it’s not the “mint-jalapeño monster” Lockwood anticipates one might expect. Enamored of the early post-Prohibition wines of the 1960s, ’70s, and ’80s, Lockwood set out to make one “that reflects a more classic period of California Cab.” He takes several steps in the cellar to pay homage to those wines, including adding about 10% of stems back into the tank after destemming. Lockwood enjoys what he describes as Asian pear aromatics from the stems and reasons that the rustic destemming equipment available in the mid-20th century likely let around 10 to 15% of the stems slip through the cracks. And he hopes the added tannin will help his wine age.

Waterhorse Ridge isn’t the sole Cabernet vineyard in Fort Ross–Seaview. Lockwood cites about half a dozen fellow champions of coastal Cabernet Sauvignon, including Red Car’s Mohrhardt Ridge. And Fort Ross isn’t unique in cultivating both Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Hanzell is one of the few Moon Mountain vineyards located beneath the fog line, a critical feature to its mesoclimate that has allowed the producer to excel with the Burgundian varieties. But Hanzell also cultivates Cabernet Sauvignon—albeit for a much leaner, more herbaceous expression than that of the sun-drenched Moon Mountain counterparts grown on higher ground. The program, which was revived in recent years, has its own devoted following and has garnered significant critical praise.

At the heart of the county, Eva Dehlinger harvests Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay and Syrah) side by side on her family’s namesake estate in the Russian River Valley. The region, seen by many as California’s most famous appellation for Pinot Noir, had not yet earned that distinction when Eva’s father, Tom, first planted his vineyard in the 1970s. “At that time, it wasn’t really known which varieties would do well here,” Eva Dehlinger says. “It wasn’t clear this [would] be  great Pinot Noir country.” She continues, “Our first Cabernet block my father put on our red Altamont soils. It was clear to him this was going to be privileged soil.” While the original 1975 Cabernet Sauvignon block has since been uprooted, the 1980 Cabernet vines—planted in similar conditions, which Dehlinger believes are key to the variety’s success in the Russian River Valley—remain in production. The red Altamont soil, which like the more widely known Goldridge is part of the Wilson Grove Formation, is most commonly found on hilltops. The drainage it provides helps reduce vigor, and the increased sun exposure the Cabernet receives at higher elevation further contributes to consistent ripening. While the 1980 block extends to the bottom of the south-facing hill, the grapes grown at the base and in different soils are omitted from the Dehlinger blend.

In truth, temperature is barely an issue for growing Cabernet in this corner of the Russian River Valley.

“Really, what I’m pushing up against is not so much can good Cabernet be grown here but can I harvest the Cabernet before the rainy season starts,” Dehlinger says. Beyond the specificities of the various meso climates across her property, Dehlinger enacts several viticultural practices to help Cabernet Sauvignon, a notoriously late-ripening variety, achieve phenolic maturity in an efficient time frame.

Much of this relates to cluster thinning—Dehlinger’s Cabernet vines are often left a single cluster per shoot—and canopy management. “If you have a very wild canopy and a lot of shade, then you will get the greener elements,” explains Dehlinger. “While I do celebrate that spiciness and the complexity that comes from a cooler climate, I don’t want it to get out of hand.” Sunlight exposure can minimize the impact of methoxypyrazines, which impart Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux varieties with herbaceous, green notes often characterized by a bell pepper flavor when underripe. Dehlinger finds that a tall canopy wall gives the Cabernet vines enough surface area for photosynthesis, but by removing lateral growth and exposing the fruiting zone, she can keep the savorier tones under control.
 

A flight of Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon wines
(Photo credit: Bryce Wiatrak)

Perhaps Cabernet Sauvignon in the Russian River Valley shouldn’t be so surprising. The typical Pinot Noirs of the region are famously generous and opulent, at times only faintly resembling expressions of the variety from colder locales. “It’s not right off the edge of an ocean cliff,” Dehlinger admits of the Russian River Valley. But even for Sonoma Coast vineyards that are, delicate, lower-alcohol wines are often a stylistic choice. Myriad generous and opulent Pinot Noirs are also produced alongside the Pacific. Lockwood makes an astute comparison to the Santa Cruz Mountains—another AVA, just south of San Francisco, that extends across the Coast Ranges and pushes against the water. Here, some of the most celebrated Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir wines in California are bottled from Ridge, Rhys, Mount Eden, and Thomas Fogarty. The results speak for themselves—so why not attempt the same on the Sonoma Coast?

Although the Burgundian varieties have seemingly marked their territories, there remains plenty of reason to question if Sonoma truly has the right grapes in the right places—or if it will down the road. “What I’ve joked for a long time is that Waterhorse was my hedge against global warming,” Lockwood says, though with some seriousness. “Fifteen years from now, I’m going to have the best Cabernet vineyard in California.”

Tasting Notes


Kamen Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain District 2018
One of several youngish prestige Cabernet projects in the AVA—Kamen’s first release came in 1991—this wine shows the hallmark characteristics of Moon Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. Grown at 1,100 to 1,450 feet in a biodynamic vineyard farmed by the Coturri family, Kamen’s Cabernet shows a massive tannic heft, matched by a warming 15.5% alcohol by volume and balanced with a persistent line of acidity. All of this is typical of Moon Mountain structure, while the flavors of pomegranate molasses, chocolate sauce, and poached fig reflect a ripe, gratifying style.
 
Cornell Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Fountaingrove District 2017 97 Points
Founded by Henry and Vanessa Cornell, with Elizabeth Tangney as winemaker and Françoise Peschon as consulting winemaker, Cornell bottles some of the most alluring wines in the Fountaingrove District. The 2017 Cornell—only the fifth vintage—shows dazzling rosewater, violet pastille, and sandalwood aromatics, followed by flavors of tart plum, macerated black cherry, and blue fruit flavors. Exceptionally balanced and finely chiseled, the wine offers impressive elegance and purity.
 
Aperture Bordeaux Blend Alexander Valley 2018 96+ Points
Jesse Katz describes Oliver Ranch as on the border of the prospective Pocket Peak area. It sits on a plateau on the eastern hillsides of the Alexander Valley and has a combination of volcanic and river deposit soil influence. The wine finishes with tremendous length and demonstrates great polish in its tannins and intensity of flavor.
 
Skipstone Oliver’s Blend 2018
Another ambitious project in the eastern hills of the Alexander Valley, owned by Fahri and Constance Diner and with Philippe Melka as winemaker, Skipstone offers expressive, suave Bordeaux-styled wines. The 2018 Oliver’s Blend is a monovarietal Cabernet Sauvignon that tastes distinctively Californian in its generous, expansive black fruit tones and persistent tannins. Tasting of plum compote and blueberries, the wine has great compaction and length.

Skiptstone Preface Red Blend 2018
The 2018 Preface Proprietary Red blend offers up a gorgeous scents of preserves, blueberries with hints of cloves, star anise, and roses. The bright palate is lush and full-bodied, rich and captivating with an appealing structure of well balanced fruit culminating with silky grained tannins and pleasing flavors that finish very long and pleasantly. Preface is a Merlot-dominated Bordeaux Blend made by Philippe Melka, rounded with the addition of both Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) for structure and aromatic expression. Only 175 cases were produced.
 


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Remembering the heroes of 9/11

“Time is passing. Yet, for the United States of America, there will be no forgetting September the 11th. We will remember every rescuer who died in honor. We will remember every family that lives in grief. We will remember the fire and ash, the last phone calls, the funerals of the children.”
— George W. Bush


Twenty years ago today, America endured the worst day it had ever seen during the attack on 9/11.  Thankfully, out of that tragedy came unity and a sense of community among not only Americans, but our allies around the world as well.  As we take time to honor those who lost their lives in the attack and the heroes who have sacrificed theirs every day since remember…
WE WILL NEVER FORGET.