Isn’t it time to embrace Merlot again?
RecordNet.com
Actor Paul Giamatti appeared as a guest on “The Late Show with Stephen Colbert” and admitted something surprising. “I don’t know (bleep!) about wine,” Giamatti said. “I don’t know jack (bleep!) about wine.” He could have fooled me and, apparently, many others.
Giamatti’s performance as an angst-ridden, wine-obsessed divorcé, Miles Raymond, in the movie “Sideways,” in which he emphatically exclaimed detest for Merlot and in a later scene exalted the beauty and mystery of Pinot noir, was so convincing, sales of both varieties were impacted.
According to an article by National Public Radio’s Kristen Hartke, Steven Cuellar, an economics professor at California State University, Sonoma, found sales of Merlot declined 2 percent from January 2005 (roughly three months after “Sideways” was released) through 2008, while Pinot noir increased 16 percent. In the same article, industry analyst Gabriel Froymovich of Vineyard Financial Associates said Pinot noir production in California has increased some 170 percent since “Sideways.”
The phenomenon known as the “Sideways Effect” originated from a talented actor who in real life knows next to nothing about wine. Go figure.
“Boy, I’ve never seen a wine take a tank like Merlot did because of a movie,” said Dave Dart, owner of D’art Wines in Lodi. “And do you know why (Miles) wouldn’t drink Merlot in the movie? It says it in the book only. He doesn’t drink Merlot because that was his ex-wife’s favorite wine.”
If only that tidbit had been in the movie, maybe Merlot wouldn’t have suffered a fall from grace.
Isn’t it time to shrug off the “Sideways Effect” and embrace Merlot again? There’s no better time to hop back on the bandwagon with the fall season upon us. Need convincing?
Consider the following:
- Merlot is one of the six noble grape varieties, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot noir, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon blanc, and is a major player in some of the world’s most renowned wines.
- Merlot has black cherry, raspberry and plum flavors and is less austere than Cabernet Sauvignon, its main partner, along with Cabernet Franc, in the great blends of Bordeaux.
- Merlot is a terrific entry-point red wine and versatile with food, as it pairs beautifully with fall dishes, such as mushroom risotto, stews, roasted meats and even spaghetti and meatballs.
There is a movement afoot to help Merlot regain respect and market share. This month, an online social media group, #MerlotMe, is encouraging Merlot lovers to profess their affection to the world. Some 100 wineries, mostly in Napa, have partnered in the effort.
Paul Marsh, certified sommelier and former owner of Mile Wine Co. in Stockton, doesn’t need convincing. He’s a big-time Merlot fan and had been long before Virginia Madsen, who also starred in “Sideways,” visited Mile Wine Co. back in the day.
“Big, plush, juicy, it’s ‘Jessica Rabbit’ in a glass,” said Marsh, referring to the character in the movie “Who Framed Roger Rabbit.” “I love Merlot. It’s like the skinny black dress and blue blazer, it works no matter what.”
Dart began working with Merlot because he wanted to craft a Bordeaux blend. But each time he tried, it didn’t quite work, so he has bottled standalone Merlots from the 2017 vintage, available now, and 2018, which has yet to be released. To have some fun with his guests in the tasting room, Dart obscures the identity of his Merlot on the menu with the letter “M” followed by symbols.
“We normally pour it in a carafe and we pour it without telling people what it is until after they’ve had it,” he said. “And then they go, ‘Oh, I didn’t think I liked Merlot.’
“No, you just didn’t like the movie.”
Here are a few stunning Merlot Suggestions:
1. Paloma
2. Trespass
3. Switchback Ridge
4. Ilaria
5. Arietta
6. Coho
7. Paradigm
8. Leonetti
Click here or on the links above to order!